Engine rebuild with no former experience........

wrote:

Hello Jim, 
The upper washers of the shock absorbers must be fitted the other way arond.

Best regards
Frank

 

And the screws must be screwed in all the way. There is no torque specification here.

Thanks for the advice guys.

Big day today!

Car pushed out of the garage so I could move the car lift.



Car lift out of the way, the best tool I ever bought.



Lifting the engine.



Here we go....








The starter motor was fouling on the engine mount, This happened last time I put the engine in so I removed the mount till the engine was in a bit further.



Engine on its mounts.



Prop shaft connected and then the trans mount and support fitted.



That's it in and self supporting. It will take a few more days to get all the ancillaries, fuel injection, exhaust etc installed. Then the first trial start.

Congratulations, what a big day!

I’ve been keenly following your work, what a pleasure to see (especially since you have “no former experience”).

Looking forward as always to your updates.

Best wishes,

Hi Kai,

Jim is a physicist and for physicists Problems are to be solved!

Congrats to your car's marriage Jim! We keep our fingers crossed for a smooth engine start.

Don't forget the oil 
You're doing a great job. I'm a I am a huge fan of your report.

Back into the garage after a four day break

Alternator fitted.



Harmonic balancer and pulley.



Power steering pump.



This PS hose union is tricky to tighten, I used a 3/8th inch crows foot and my serpentine belt tensioner tool.



Engine mount heat shield and engine suspension lever.



Exhaust manifold.



Engine shock absorber fitted, look closely at the bottom washer under the lower rubber.



It was still stuck to the rubber when I dug it out and missed all the de-rusting and plating. They are still available new so I will buy a couple (its the same on the other side) as I don't want to get all the plating equipment out again just for these.



Spark plug cable heat shield fitted.



Fuel system fitted.



 

Aaaarrrghhh!!!!

The throttle body rubber boot clamp wont tighten, something is wrong with the way its configured. I will need to remove the fuel system to get it out and fix it.



It looked like this when I removed it.

Hallo Jim

it looks great,perfect work.i make a big poster from the engine,and hang it in my garage.

Mike

Hi JIm,

how does it feel now when the first start after the rebuild is getting really close?

Regards,
Lutz

Great, I'm looking forward to the first drive but worried about the first engine start.

It looks like the hose clamp above is no longer available, does anyone know what this "side/edge tightening" clamp is called?

Hi Jim,

i think you can just use the newer one, this is from MOPF-V8....

 


 

Me again,
and just get 2 of the Binders...
Its a mess mounting them, my personal opinion....

Thanks Frank, I managed to reassemble the existing clamp, see below.

Fuel system off again to get access to the clamp.



The band had sheared off in the slot of the tightening screw.



I was able to pick it out.



Refitted and tightened.



Next I fitted the fuel pipe clips, 4 in these positions, did I miss any?









Still have a few spares.

Power steering fluid cooler fitted.



New hoses fitted.



Next the throttle linkage, there seemed to be too many parts in the bag.



Fitted, I'm sure the large washer with rubber bonded should be used somewhere.



Next I filled the PS system.......



.....and spun it up with a drill to bleed all the air out.



Last I jacked up the front of the car and tested out the setting I'd put into the steering box, it ended up with about 10mm of free play at the steering wheel.



With that set I could move onto the exhaust manifold.



Surprisingly I was able to get this torque wrench onto all the nuts and bolts, but I have no idea what torque they should be set at, does anyone know?

Hi Jim,

regarding torque have a look at 49-100 in our SLpedia .

Hi Volker,

I had a look but it only discusses the "exhaust to manifold" nuts and bolts but not the "manifold to head" torque.

Online resources suggest 17Nm for M8 steel bolts in to aluminium vs ~25Nm for steel bolts into steel.

Yes, I looked into the WIS after Jim's post from yesterday for different models and in different chapters where the exhaust manifold was removed and nowhere a manifold-to-head torque was mentioned.

Regards,
Lutz

I had a look in my XK8 repair manual which stated 25Nm but online resources say 17Nm for Aluminium, in the end I set both sides to 19Nm, I can always tighten them up a bit if they blow.

Right side engine shock etc fitted.



Cross brace and fly catcher fitted.





Radiator fitted.



Power steering cooler flex hoses and horns fitted, don't flame me about the non genuine horns, I'll buy better ones sometime.



I then spent an hour searching for the coolant bottle before finding it in the boot!

Here is an interesting comparison, the pic below is from 20th March 2011 when I put this engine in the car.....







....and one from 30th March ten years later in a similar state of assembly.