Engine rebuild with no former experience........

Both bell housings.



Interesting that there are metal particles in the old transmission, you can see them here on the pump. The old transmission had also been given a bad silver paint job. It was originally married to a 350 engine that was in the car back when I bought it, it turns out both that engine and trans were trash.



As the ball bearing had been treated to the metal particles I pulled it out, new ones are expensive from Mercedes but cheap from SKF, it is marked SKF 16008, a totally standard bearing.



It popped out easily.



I'm still waiting for prices for a replacement shaft, I will have to wait till Monday.

Today I experimented with removing the stator shaft. I applied a bit of heat with a hot air gun.



Then knocked it out from the rear using a socket.



It came out fairly easily.



Next I wanted to do a bit more cleaning on the transmission body but didn't want any debris getting in, so made up this blanking plate........



.....and bolted it one with a bit of aviation permatex.



I'm sure Kim wont mind me borrowing here tooth brush.



Lots of brake cleaner later.



Its not pretty but its clean......



.......and still clean inside.

Die grinder, wire brush and a corroded transmission, not for long.



Then painted these steel parts.



Un-peened the rear nut.



This nut was on tight!





Rear seal came out easily.



New seals.





Then an hour on the old gasket...........finally it was done.



Shift lever reattached.

Amazing !

Hi all, I'm confused about the transmission mount.

I'm pretty sure the one I fitted ten years ago is the wrong one as it seemed to be too narrow for the bracket.

The bracket has been spread out to be roughly parallel again below.



This is the part that I fitted 10 years ago.



This is the mount from my spare transmission.



This is it's part number which seems to be NLA, A1152402118.



You can see here that the OEM one on the left is taller.



This is an extract from EPC with two part numbers for the rubber mount and metal cradle.



Does anyone have a clue which is the correct part number for the mount that will fit the cradle I have.

Hello
Wow !!!

Werni

Jim,

I am really looking forward to read about Your updates. Really eager to follow up.
However I would not be able to do half of the job.

So really curious what happens when the ignition is started first time after renovation.

Thanks for sharing.

Bernd

Hi Jim,
I am really a Rookie doing stuff on my SL but I am learning. So I try to follow your impressive work. Looks like the mentioned transmission mount is available in 2 versions, as you already wrote. I looked at SLS-HH to learn and found out following:
There are 2 versions, a small and a wide one, what you already found out.
SLS- says, that the small one is used from 07/1972 after VIN 005814  THIS ONE
The wide one is the previous version  THIS ONE

I am not sure if this helps, but I am trying. Keep on showing your progress. I am keen to see it running again.

Hi Jim,

the rubber mounting ... 2218 /  bracket .... 0140 is up to id-number: 023 001831 024 000015 043 008108 044 005813.
The rubber mounting ... 0413 / bracket .... 0340 is from id-number: 022 000001 023 001832 024 000016 042 000001 043 008109 044 005814.

Regards,
Lutz

Hallo Jim
Iam a absolute beginner and i have problems with my blood pressure, when the pressure is falling down i look at youre photos and the pressure gets high.respect and sorry for my very bad english. Mike

Post Brexit deliveries are taking a lot longer from Germany, I ordered this and a few other items from Autodoc back on the 13th Jan and it just arrived today.



Removing the transmission front seal.



Fairly brittle.



Looks to be a couple of bearing/bushes to support the torque converter and drive shaft.



Fits together like this.



New seal back in place.



Transmission end up for cleaning of the underside.



All done.



That is all I can do for now on the transmission, once the new bearing arrives I will put it back together and attach to the engine.

On to the steering box.



The first task was to mark the position of the "play" adjuster.



Just enough space to get an Allen bit on to the steering coupler.



The drag link was already loose from removing the engine.



The nut on the pitman arm was not tight.



Ball joint splitter on the track rod end.



Arhhhh, my perfect paint!



The pitman arm came off easily.



Steering lock bolt ready to be fitted.



Cleaned up.



Ready to be stripped down, but I'd better check the instruction first.

On to the steering box, should be an easy half day job for a first time, or an hour second time round. So this is how it went.....

Pitman shaft driven out.



That's a lot of seals to go in.



Removing the front cover of the steering shaft showed this, a sheared bolt, someone has obviously been in here before me and did a bad job.





Worm and piston removed.



First I tried removing it with a centre punch, this has never worked for me in the past but I always give it a try before welding on a nut.



Incredibly it was loose and came out.



Next this circlip.....



.... and removed this cap.



Does anyone know if I can safely remove the parts below the cap, without small parts flying everywhere, I would like to put the entire body through a parts washer and remove all the old paint?

That's a lot of seals.



Pitman arm seals and O rings replaced.



Next on to this nut.



I held the nut in a vice and tried two different chain wrenches. both bent.



Then a long lever but the nut was slipping in the vice.



The solution was to drill a hole in a bar for the shaft then weld the bar to the nut.



Two long levers.



And its off.



Hopefully tomorrow will go a bit smother.

Hi Jim,

maybe this helps.

Regards,
Lutz

Thanks Lutz, I had a look there and a few other resources and no one pulled it out, so I decided to leave it in place and rebuild the box.

I completed the steering box today.

I was able to use these large circlip pliers to unscrew the front section.



O-rings, circlip and seal to be replaced.



Tightened the nut as much as I could.



All complete.



The parts in the top right are spare. I presume the kit covers a range of different boxes.



The SLshop charge £ 450 to do this job!

www.theslshop.com/parts-shop/mercedes-be...vice-1074602101.html

My 99p ebay win arrived.



It was nice to have a bit of heat in the garage.



New bearing fitted.



Ready to install the pump.





Next the filter.





The new gasket.



Permatex Aviation sealant on both sides of the gasket.



Sealant on the lower 7 bolts as per the repair manual.

Finally complete.

Hi Jim,

why do you use sealant on the gasket? Shouldn't the gasket seal by itself?

Regards,
Lutz