Engine rebuild with no former experience........

Hi Lutz,

the seal lip design is very stiff in longitudinal direction and about 2mm are enough.
But this space at least must be available. At sealing diameters of this size installing a new seal at old position is not recommended!

Regards Martin

I think I have read in the WIS, that there is a repair size if the seal has made a groove

It’s called “offset shaft seal”. Offset simmering.
Rudiger

I found that the replacement seals are slightly less deep than the original which should put the seal surface just behind the damaged surface. The original seal is 13mm deep and the replacement is ~10mm.



I did run into a problem today, two seized bolts, more details on that later.

In the mean time here is a video of the engine being removed.

More progress today but then I hit a problem, two long cap head bolts that have seized and are rounded off, more on that later.

Pulley and balancer removed, Someone has been in here before me to try to repair a front seal oil leak.



The oil leak!



Engine transferred onto the stand.



Pulling the crank hub off.



It has a deep groove also, someone had been in here before me and fitted a new seal which wasn't working too well.



A look at the timing.

Crank on 0 degrees.



Left CAM.



Right CAM.



With the left cam lined up then the balancer shows this.

Some more parts removed, one small screw sheared off, that should be easy to remove or drill out.





Water pump removed.



Front of the engine stripped.



OK, so here is the problem, there are two of the cap head bolts both at the rear of the intake manifold that are seized. As you can see they are long, I tried map gas and gentle pressure, then an impact and they stripped out.



My plan is to weld on a big nut but from the way they felt I think the bolt will shear off at some point along the shaft. Because they are at an odd angle the manifold will not lift off if they shear above the level of the head.

Any suggestions?