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Engine rebuild with no former experience........
- Obelix116
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Gruß
Christian
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- wusel-53
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I hope the whole thing will still appear as a workshop article in compressed form. Great job description. Keep it up!
I hope my english is not too funny
Viele Grüße
Thorsten
Man lernt nie aus
380SL (US-Version, Bj.84), Eura-Wohnmobil und ein ebike
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- Sternenkreuzer
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i had a look for another dip-stick tube which would fit maybe....
Really shocking nearly 165 € and not available.
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Grüße aus Hamburg.
Frank
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- Racediagnostics
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Cheers
Jim
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1979 450SL - 2002 XK8 4.2
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- Racediagnostics
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Potassium Hydroxide + pitted Aluminium => Hydrogen + "soot that is not easy to remove"
Perhaps they were thinking about a different recipe for oven cleaner or smooth aluminium.
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After wire brushing and power washing, marginally better than what I started with.
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I needed a wire brush for cleaning/polishing parts so .....
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The used CAM bearings from ebay also arrived, they are in perfect condition.
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Cheers
Jim
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1979 450SL - 2002 XK8 4.2
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- Racediagnostics
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Here is a pc of both intake and exhaust guides from the top and below, plenty meat on the bottom of both.
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I'm thinking about removing the snap rings and driving the exhaust guides in from below. Either way I will heat the heads to 80degC and buy some dry ice to cool the guides and drive in tools down to -80degC.
The original MB "drive in" tool (110589011500) looks like this. Looking at it's shape it would seem to me that the drive in pressure must be applied to the top edge rather than some lower part of the guide. Hence the need to ream the guides after use.
Has anyone ever seen or used one of these? I've also seen it listed as 910589011500.
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Cheers
Jim
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1979 450SL - 2002 XK8 4.2
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Cheers
Jim
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1979 450SL - 2002 XK8 4.2
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The tool pushes on the shoulder of the intake guide and one the snap ring locator on the exhaust guide.
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Chased out the spark plug threads.
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Then cleaned up the starter motor.....
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....and got them primed.
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Cheers
Jim
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1979 450SL - 2002 XK8 4.2
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Cheers
Jim
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1979 450SL - 2002 XK8 4.2
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- Marcel
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great job
Gruß Marcel
300 CE-24 Bj 7/90
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Then on to fix this rusted and sheared off bolt.
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I drilled it out before getting the manifold cleaned but managed to damage the thread.
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So drilled it out and taped it for a helicoil.
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Installed with thread lock a bit below the surface so as to be fitted in good threads.
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Cheers
Jim
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1979 450SL - 2002 XK8 4.2
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....but spraying primer at 1 degC didn't work out too well. I will need to sand out the runs.
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Cheers
Jim
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1979 450SL - 2002 XK8 4.2
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- PanTau
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to assemble the pulley: It is easy to overlook the fact that one of the six screws is on a different locking circle, which defines the installation position. I didn't notice and wondered why I couldn't fit the last screw.
Best Regards
Frank
VG
Frank
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Cheers
Jim
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1979 450SL - 2002 XK8 4.2
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The delivery of dry ice turned up by 10.30. Somewhere below ~-80degC I presume, the digital thermometer only goes down to -50degC.
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Head in hot water, heating to 80degC and a couple of heater strips to keep the head hot once on the bench.
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Guides into chill.
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Head up to temperature.
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All the guides pushed in, all went in easily apart from two that took a bit more force.
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Next, two expensive reamers, 8.99mm and 10.99mm.
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They went through the cooled down guides fairly easily and only one seemed to cut a tiny amount.
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Lubricated with wd40.
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The next job will be to check the valve to seat seal.
Cheers
Jim
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1979 450SL - 2002 XK8 4.2
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- Chromix
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Hälsningar,
Lutz
Alle Lebewesen außer den Menschen wissen, daß der Hauptzweck des Lebens darin besteht, es zu genießen.
Samuel Butler
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- Racediagnostics
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Today was spent lapping the valves. First engineers blue on the seats....
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...and valves.
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I used course then fine lapping compound using a conventional hand tool.
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It was a slow pita but it showed all valves to be concentric with the seats, all valves showed a very consistent even pattern.
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I then gave all the valves a second lap with the fine compound again using Martin's method. Using the hose to connect the drill takes out the risk of canting the valve stem.
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Finally I did a leak test, each recess filled with water.
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I ended up with a small single drip on about half the valves after 5 minutes. I have no idea if this is good enough or not, I guess with the valve springs fitted this would be much better.
Tomorrow the other head.
Cheers
Jim
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Then filled the runners with brake cleaner.
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There was only just the tiniest of weeps from a couple of valves, to be honest, I am almost ready to call that good.
I will take the heads up the the bike engine builder (who did the TIG welding for me) tomorrow to get his opinion if the seal is good enough. There is nothing like getting an experienced pair of hands on the head, so I put both to one side for the rest of the day.
Next I went on to rebuilding the pistons, only lost one of the wrist pin retainers pinging across the garage.
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New, bearings fitted.
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Tried out the new torque gauge.
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Checked the dimensions, all was good.
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Then repeated for the other 8 pistons.
Cheers
Jim
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- Marcel
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Chapeau, you are doing a great Job.
Gruß Marcel
300 CE-24 Bj 7/90
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- Dieseldok
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did you got a brake bleeding vacuum bottle?
Valve test with vacuum shows much better if the seat is sealing or not.
You need just a plug or a flat iron/ alloy piece and plug the related channel.
Then you see which seat are good to go which one need more grinding work.
Nevertheless the valve and seats should seal good after the cutting job even before final grinding.
Kind regards
JP
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I then took them up to the motorbike engine builder, very local, only 5 minuets away. He tested them with petrol in the intake runners and exhaust ports, the were a couple of ports with a very tiny slow weep. He said he would not do any further work on them and would be more than happy. He was amazed that the new guides had gone in so well and maintained concentricity. He had expected that the seats would have had to be re-cut, the workshop had a full set of Nuway cutters but he advised not to do it.
He had a very interesting workshop, and was rebuilding a racing engine with titanium valves......
Next I plan to go through the 80 or so plastic bags with parts in them and remove, clean and catalogue all the nuts and bolts and decide which to replace, re-plate or reuse.
Cheers
Jim
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- Racediagnostics
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[img]hhttps://www.racediagnostics.com/gallery/_data/i/upload/2020/12/08/20201208194900-e70e7edd-la.jpg[/img]
This pile will probably be scrapped, may change my mind when I find out the replacement cost.
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Parts to be plated.
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Parts to be cleaned.
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Now for a bit of excel and to check prices here.
www.belmetric.com/88-yellow-zinc-plated-...u9tjr71q50dt072v8f83
Cheers
Jim
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Rudiger
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don't send the cylinder head bolts for plating! They are Nickel coated for low friction coefficient!
Otherwise you have a risk of damage the treads in the crankcase.
Regrads Martin
Ich bin jetzt in dem Alter wo ich meine Fehler zugeben könnte - wenn ich welche hätte
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- Racediagnostics
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Well that's most of the hardware ordered from Belmetric in nice yellow passivated zinc, I will re-plate/reuse the M12 nuts and bolts. Trying to plate over 400 items myself would have just taken too long. The cost came in at about £95 for 422 items, however shipping is £40, then import tax will be the final sting in the tail.
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Cheers
Jim
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- Moerten
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Thumbs up.
Gruß
Martin
_____________________________________
Lass mich, ich kann das... Oh, kaputt.
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I wondered why you mentioned import taxes, checked out Belmetric and saw that they are located in the US. Good grief, you are buying nuts and bolts in the US!!! And even metric ones!!
You could have found them here. I didn't check out all sizes but a few and they were available and they sell them by the piece.
Probably too late for you but maybe interesting for others as well.
Regards,
Lutz
Alle Lebewesen außer den Menschen wissen, daß der Hauptzweck des Lebens darin besteht, es zu genießen.
Samuel Butler
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- Racediagnostics
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I had searched for a one stop shop in the UK but had not found a good supplier for yellow passivated zinc.
Looking on the positive side, I saved a fortune by not buying from MB.
Cheers
Jim
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Cheers
Jim
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no, nothing special.
You should renew the rubber fuel lines, the material is available for little money:
sternzeit-107.de/de/forum/forum-107/1730...orraum-zum-verteiler
As well you will need to exchange the lower (rubber) part of the Fueldistributor/air vane housing.
Be careful with the small plastic brackets at the fuel lines, they are not longer available, but you can 3D-Print them:
sternzeit-107.de/de/forum/forum-107/2028...ritzleitungen#203684
The STL-file now is located in the download-section.
Regards Martin
Ich bin jetzt in dem Alter wo ich meine Fehler zugeben könnte - wenn ich welche hätte
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